LA Conservancy – The Art Deco Tour

Ever since taking a tour of the Carroll Avenue Victorian homes several years ago, I’ve been meaning to take another tour offered by the Los Angeles Conservancy. These tours are well-run and offer great insight into some of the city’s architectural heritage. I’ve always thought that New York and Chicago took the prize when it came to great urban architecture, but the Conservancy has really helped me to see LA’s own treasures that more than hold their own against those back East.

So having been fascinated by a recent close-up of the Eastern Columbia building, I decided to catch the conservancy’s Art Deco tour.  What we now know as Art Deco didn’t really get that name until the 60s.  It takes its name from the 1925 Exposition Internationale des Arts Décoratifs et Industriels Modernes in Paris.  Originally a design movement, it expanded into architecture.  Key features include strong vertical lines, zig zags and setbacks, use of geometrical shapes, and themes from non-Western cultures like those of ancient Egypt and Mexico. There were 3 major styles comprising what’s now known as Art Deco: Zig Zag Moderne, celebrating the optimism of the 20s; PWA Moderne, which evolved after the crash of the stock market when development focused on government buildings; and then Streamline Moderne, which celebrated transportation, including ocean liners, the automobile, and the airplane. In the late 30s, the Art Deco period was ending, and Streamline Moderne transitioned into the earliest examples of International Style. I never associated LA architecture much with Art Deco, but because the timing coincided with the city’s building boom, it actually boasts one of the most extensive collections in the world.

The tour’s starting point, Pershing Square, was abuzz with activity just before 10AM, as most of their weekly downtown tours begin here.  L and I met up, found the tour guide, and it short time were being introduced to the Title Guarantee and Trust Company Building.  A building that I would normally look right past suddenly became the focal point and took on new interest when we learned how it was one of the first Zig Zag Modern buildings in the city, and how Art Deco buildings in LA differed subtly from those in other cities because of our climate, height restrictions, and a few other factors. We were also able to see the stark contrast to the 1924 Pershing Square Building across Hill Street, which was built in the Beaux Art style that was typical for the city core until the 1920s.

From there, we ambled on to the Southern California Edison Building (One Bunker Hill) which I had a beautiful view of when I stayed in the Checkers hotel.  Our docent explained how this was the first all-electric building in the city, and became a monument to hydro-electric, electric lights, and power.  These inspirations were clear in the motifs that were located outside the building.

Inside, the lobby was a beautiful space filled with light, marble and murals.  Though the stock market had already crashed when this building was built in 1930-34, you’d never know it from the richness of the interior.

We stopped at the LA Library (1926), where we could now see precursors to the design elements that became popular a few years later, after the 1925 exhibition that launched the movement.  We then looked over to the site of the once-beautiful Richfield Tower, that alas is no more.  Its black and gold exterior was meant to evoke another of LA’s important industries at the time: the “black gold” of oil.  Torn down in 1969, it helped to inspire the historic preservation movement that LA Conservancy is a part of.

From there we worked our way over to Olive and the 1928 Oviatt building.  Not being a native Angeleno, I had never heard of the clothing store “Alexander & Oviatt”, nor frankly had I even noticed this building if I ever walked by it.  But the entrance gives clues to its Art Deco heritage, and a ride up 13 floors in the elevator to the penthouse confirmed it.  Mr. Oviatt had his men’s store below, and his exclusive penthouse up above.  It was a wonderful surprise high up above the street, with its period photography, Lalique glass windows, and one-of-a-kind city view. It’s now a venue for special events and filming, and I’m sure they give a small glimpse into what the building and penthouse were like in its day. We were also lucky to get a view inside the restaurant, Cicada, on our way out.  The rich wood interior and remaining showcases conveyed a sense of the mens store it once housed.

The William Fox Building on Hill Street is today the home of the Fox Jewelry Plaza, and its architectural beauty is rather masked by the storefronts, signage, and scads of window air conditioners.  But when you look closely, you can see some very interesting elements, including beautiful arched entryway.  Across the street is the very green terra cotta of the Sun Realty Building, whose sunburst “button” is incorporated into the exterior decoration.

Terra Cotta also stars at the nearby Eastern Columbia building, the structure that inspired me to learn more about the city’s Art Deco marvels. It’s a key example of adaptive reuse that’s helping to keep these buildings alive.  Unlike the Richfield Tower, this former clothing and furniture store was given a new lease on life when converted to high-end condos.  We were treated to another unique LA experience when we encountered a movie shoot (“Flash Forward”) right in front of the building, completed with a multi-vehicle car crash.  Unfortunately, it prevented me from getting a nicer shot of the beautiful gold and turquoise entryway on Broadway. As I understood it, the use of colorful terra cotta is one of those Art Deco features more unique to LA, as it couldn’t be employed in colder climates.  We are definitely better off for it.

The tour wrapped up just across the street at the 9th and Broadway Building. This 1929 structure was designed by Claud Beelman, who also did the Eastern Columbia building.  (Interestingly, it links to a previous adventure, because he also designed the Culver Hotel).  The docent offered to guide people back to Pershing Square, but we opted to try out Angelique’s, a well-known cafe in the area.  It was great location to visit on a beautiful day, and we enjoyed our tuna sandwiches, but next time I think I’ll head back to Tiara.

This tour was fantastic, and I’m already looking at my schedule to see when I can do the next downtown tour.  I finally became a member of the conservancy and encourage others to do so.  In addition to providing them with funding, their membership numbers give them additional weight as they advocate for the preservation of these great historic buildings.

Tags: Architecture, art deco, Los Angeles Conservancy