Once I got it into my mind that I was headed for Borrego Springs, I next turned to that crucial question – where to stay? My Google search on Anza Borrego lodging turned out to be a godsend, for it pointed me to a New York Times article on the area, and then toward The Palms At Indian Head.
Frommers pretty much nailed the description when they said “It takes a sense of nostalgia and an active imagination for most visitors to appreciate Borrego Springs’s only bed-and-breakfast.” I had done some additional research on Yelp and TripAdvisor, and the reviews ranged from compliments to whines. “What the heck,” I figured – “it’s just one night”. And I’m delighted to report that I fell in the category of those loving it.
The Palms is not the kind of place you want to see in bright light. Though it underwent a renovation in the 90s, the years leading up to it weren’t kind. The owners have done a remarkable job in making it livable, but you can still see where the ceilings have leaked, and you can feel where the floors give more than they should.
But that’s pretty easy to look past, for what the Palms instead has to offer is friendly service, an amazing setting, and tons of character. The decor is mid-century modern meets “Design on a Dime” – a melange of different styles that is at once funky and comfortable. The guest room we had was actually a suite – 2 queen beds and a separate living room with chairs and a sleeper sofa. It was done in a sort of southwestern style that seemed to match the desert setting more than the mid-century architecture of the inn. But the beds were extremely comfortable, with plenty of pillows, and the room had nice homey touches like a Yahtzee game, a small book library, and walking sticks that we could use while we visited.
For a place with only 12 rooms, it seemed much bigger. Part of that is because there are plenty of nice common areas. The lobby is spacious and opens up onto the poolside patio. And the pool itself is gigantic – Olympic sized. Indeed, the inn at one time accommodated many more guests in a series of bungalows, but the years of neglect took their toll and they are now just interesting ruins that remain on the property.
Throughout the property are mementos that speak of its history, when Hoberg’s Desert Inn catered to the likes of Bing Crosby, Clark Gable and Marilyn Monroe. When night comes and the soft lights come on, it’s not too hard to imagine those days again. Time may have favored Palm Springs over Borrego Springs, but with slower development, Borrego Springs seems to have held on to those days a little better.
The on-site bar and restaurant bring in people not staying on the property and help to make The Palms feel larger and more active. When we arrived at 2:30, people were still enjoying lunch on the patio. We made reservations for dinner and were seated in the wonderfully cozy bar, where we could enjoy our meal and watch the Olympics. The food was really good, especially when you consider the challenges of getting food and drink to this isolated part of the state.
The staff were all-around friendly and helpful, and that just clinched the experience. And they seem to take things at their own pace – service was slow, but we had it in our minds that we were in no rush. My only regret was that we only booked one night. There is such a good vibe to the Palms that I’d love to go back and take a day just to relax, with no plans and no distractions.
Tags: Beyond LA
Leave a Reply